Sunday, July 8, 2018

TRADITIONAL OLD SLAVIC WHEAT SOURDOUGH BAKING

Until the end of XIX century, people used Sourdough cultures to bake breads and other baked goods, applying the natural fermentation of flour to leaven dough without the use of commercial yeast. Wild varieties of wheat grain: Emmer, Spelt and Khorassan were used to make Traditional  Wheat Sourdough Bread with low gluten content. 




In Russia Emmer and Spelt used for porridge and bread were both amongst the most common in 17-18th century.

Spelt and Emmer are very similar wheat cultures, the latter is the botanical precursor of the former. They have different chromosome sets.

Emmer (Triticum dicoccumoriginated in Mediterranean countries 5-6 thousands years B.C. The most ancient grains were found in Ararat Mountains in Turkey and later in Caucasus Mountains in Russia. It is the popular wheat in Italy, called Farro.

Emmer has 28 chromosomes, just like the hard wheat grain widely used our days (to make pasta and Semolina flour), but Emmer is non-GMO grown and can only be cultivated organically, being intolerant to chemical fertilizers.

Emmer has very rich vitamin and mineral content, very low gluten and low glycemic index. It has one of the highest fiber content of all grains.

Emmer has a pleasant nut flavour when used in cooking or baking. The bread from Emmer flour comes out drier and coarser.

Spelt (Triticum spelta) has been known since 5 thousands years B.C. in Ancient Egypt and Babylon. It is very similar by look and size to modern wheat grain.

It contains only 6 chromosomes. Spelt is the wild wheat variety that has never been genetically modified (GMO), so we have it now in its original natural state. Just like Emmer, Spelt does not tolerate any chemical fertilizers, and is very labour-intensive to cultivate. 

Spelt has rich vitamin and mineral profile and the highest of all wheat varieties protein content. It also contains tryptophan amino-acid which gives the natural calming effect to nervous system.

Spelt grain has low glycemic index and very low gluten, which is lower than that of Barley and Oat grains.

Khorassan or Kamut (Triticum turgidum) is the ancient wild hard wheat variety, the cross of wild wheat with weed grasses. It is called the "Prophet's Grain" due to belief that Noah took it to his Ark according to Bible.

Khorassan grain is much larger in size than modern wheat grain. It has more distinctive aroma than Spelt, nutty flavour and the taste of pulses when used in cooking or baking.


Kamut has low level of oxidizing, so can be stored for longer than other grains and flours. Its nutritional profile is full of vitamins and minerals. It has very high protein and very low gluten content.



TRADITIONAL LONG FERMENTATION 100% WHOLEGRAIN ANCIENT WHEAT BREAD RECIPE:

This family recipe is for the shaped bread (proofed and baked on a tray). Wholegrain Emmer, Spelt and/or Khorassan flours, and their combinations can be used. The more Emmer flour you add, the more water you will need to add due its high fiber content.

This bread comes out to be less spongy than the one baked with ordinary Wheat or White Bakers Flour with very high gluten content. If you use these flours for this recipe and aim for a spongy loaf, reduce the proofing times for both Doughs to prevent some of the gluten from breaking down, proof at very warm temperature (above 25 C), and knead the dough properly at 2nd proofing or refrigerate for at least 1 hours before baking to loosen the gluten protein chain bonds. 

Note, that such bread (with shorter time fermentation) will be less nutritious than the long-fermented bread. The nutritional quality of ordinary Wheat grain is very low comparing to ancient grains. Shorter fermentation times reduce the amount of nutrients that phytase enzyme activated in Sourdough is cable of making available in the flour via breaking down the phytate bonds, - the essense of Traditional Sourdough fermentation. Gluten protein left unbroken in the dough causes inflammation.

This recipe uses 100% Wholegrain Spelt Sourdough Starter. If using 100% Wholegrain Rye Sourdough Starter culure for this recipe, take 20% less of the Starter (160 ml).

Quantities for flour and water may vary slightly, depending on the flours used. If using White (Plain) flour, use 50% less of the Starter (1/2 Cup). 

1 cup is 250 ml.

Yield: 3 loaves by 650 g.

Opara (1st Dough):
1 Cup flour,
2 Cups warm water,
1 Cup Starter


Mix well and leave in warm place for 2-4 hours to ferment. Stir from time to time to generate air circulation. 



Opara (Increase):
1 Cup flour, 
2 Cups water

Mix well and leave for further fermenting for 4-6 hours. Stir from time to time.


2nd Dough: 
2 Cups flour,
1 Table spoons salt,
1.5 Cups water,
2 Table spoons of Cold-Pressed Hempseed or Flaxseed oil (Olive oil can be substituted),
Optional:
Seeds for decoration: Poppy/Sunflower, Chia/Sesame/Flax seeds, Pepitas, Oat flakes

Add salt and oil to water, mix well. Add Opara and, gradually, all flour. Mix well to form the dough. Flour your hands and knead it on floured surface for 5-30 minutes or refrigerate the dough for 1 hour before forming the loaves.

Form the loaves of desired shape (round or oval), place on greased trays. Leave to proof for 6-12 hours, depending on room temperature and on how well-soursed you prefer your bread to be.

If you can not bake after that time, refrigerate the loaves to avoid the dough getting sour and dropping down. Bake straight away or within 1.5 hrs after taking them out of refrigerator.

Before putting the trays in oven, pre-heat it to 250 C. With sharp knife make a few light cross cuts at the surface. Spray the loaves with cool water.

Use any seeds to decorate the loaves by wetting their surface and sprinkling seeds on the tops, pushing them lightly into the dough.

Pour half a cup of cool water inside the oven to create steam effect, and put the trays with loaves in. Bake at 250 C for 10 minutes, opening the oven few times to let the steam out. Reduce the temperature to 200 C and continue baking for another 30 minutes until the top turns golden. 

Transfer the loaves from trays on to wooden boards or racks, turning them upside to cool for 1/2-3 hours.







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