Monday, November 23, 2020

Traditional Old Slavic Polish Christmas Pryanik



Pryanik is the old Slavic baked product made of spiced fermented honey dough, analogy to European Gingerbread in England, and Busserl in Germany and Austria, that appeared in 15th century, but different from bread and biscuit doughs.

Pryaniks were mentioned to be made in old Egypt since 10th century, and in old Russia since 11th-12th centuary, based on the wooden forms findings, however the oldest recipes of Western and Eastern Slavic people are dated since 15th-16th centuries, prepared for Christmas, called Pryanik in Russia and Ukraine,  Pernik in Belorussia and Czechoslovakia, Piernik in Poland. All these names come from slavic words pryanost ("spice") and perets ("pepper"), that were very expensive at those times and used only for special occasions.

In Hungary Pryanik is called Puszedli (small ones) and Mezeskalasc (large), Licitar in Serbia and Croatia.

Spices are mixed in certain proportions to create unique aroma and taste. Recipes were passed in families through generations, with particular spices unique to each country and their regions. The favourites were: cardamon, coriander, cloves, white and black pepper, lemon and orange zest, fenel, aniseed, lavender, mint, oregano, almonds.

Modern recipes for Pryanik call for bicarbonate soda, eggs, butter, milk. In olden days, people relied on lactibacterial fermentation to airate the dough by using natural raw honey, wholegrain Wheat or Rye flours and spirit. Buttermilk was also used in later times. 

For old Slavic, as for traditional German Pryaniks, the dough used to be left for fermenting at 18-20 C from 3 weeks to several months, which affects the taste of the end product. 

Traditionally, liquids and oils were not included in Pryanik dough, so Pryaniks could be stored for many months after baking. 

Pryanik recipes have been continuously evolved with additions of new ingredients. From approximately mid 19th century, Pryanik recipes call for sugar and chocolate glazing, eggs, milk, butter, sodium bicarbonate. It needs to be noted that these added products reduce the shelf life of baked Pryaniks.

Our family's recipe is given below. I use Rye Sourdough Starter to encourage lacto-bacterial fermentation, mainly supported by wholegrain Rye flour and raw honey.

Dough:

1.2 kg of raw honey,
1/2 cup of black molasses,
2 kg of 100% wholegrain rye and/or wheat flour,
1/2 cup of natural unsweetened plant-based or dairy yoghurt (optional),
5 egg yolks (optional),
1 cup of vegetable oil (coconut, grapeseed, walnut, etc.) or butter/margarine (optional),
1 table spoon of Rye Sourdough Starter (2 table spoons if not using yoghurt) - optional
1 tea spoon of salt,
2-3 table spoons of spice mix

Spice mix: powdered cardamon, nutmeg, cinnamon, black and white pepper, aniseed, cloves, fennel, ginger, lavender seeds, dried lemon or orange zest. 

Spices can be added in different proportions depending on personal taste.
Fruit/nut essences and nuts can be added.

Glazing:
1 cup of sugar,
1/2 cup of plant-based milk (coconut or soy), or dairy milk,
lavender seeds or mint leaves

Chocolate glazing:
1/2 cup of plant-based milk (coconut or soy),
2 table spoons of margarine/cocoa butter, or butter,
2 table spoons of cocoa powder,
2 table spoons of brown sugar

Melted dark chocolate can be used instead.

Filling: 
1-2 cups of plum, european cherry or other sour-sweet jam.

Process:

Melt honey and molasses in double boiler, do not boil. Add spices, mix well. Add optional products if desired, add 1 cup of honey, Sourdough Starter. Mix well, then add the rest of flour and form the dough ball. If using wheat flour, mix the dough well for at least 15 minutes or refrigerate for half an hour.



Cover the dough ball in flour, place in plastic bag and keep in a cool dark place for 3 weeks to 7 months (maximum time, when no optional products are being used). 

Baking:

Plan for baking a week before Christmas. 

Heat oven to 180 C.

Roll out the dough about 1 cm thin. Cut the figures or divide in 2-3 parts if you plan to do one large layered Pryanik.

Grease trays and place the sheets of dough, or cut-out figures dusted well in flour. Pierce the surface with fork and place in hot oven. Bake smaller figures for 5 min, larger sheets for 10 min. 

Take out of oven and glaze while hot.

For glazing, I use lavender seeds or mint leaves to infuse the milk in, then thieve out before adding sugar and bringing to boiling. Leave on racks to cool.

If making large Pryanik, cover each layer with filling by putting it in the center and covering with the other sheet. 

Cover with chocolate glazing and decorate with nuts.

Keep the smaller figures in plastic bag, and the larger Pryanik in covered container and let sit for a week before eating. 






Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 2021!